Chikankari
Chikankari embroidery traces its origins to the delicate white-on-white embroidery of Shiraz, which was introduced to India by Persian nobles in the Mughal court. Influenced by the intricate carving patterns of Mughal architecture, Chikankari has evolved into a renowned art form. Its history in Lucknow spans over 200 years and received patronage from Nawabs, further enriching its cultural significance and craftsmanship.
History
Chikankari is a timeless craft with origins dating back to the splendid Mughal era of 16th century India. Legend has it that Nur Jahan, the wife of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, introduced this cherished technique to Lucknow, where it flourished under the patronage of the Mughal rulers and their esteemed families. At Ananta, we celebrate the rich heritage of Chikankari, honoring its origins and the intricate artistry it embodies. Initially crafted on delicate white muslin fabric using threads as pure as nature itself - from the graceful curves of flowers to the intricate details of leaves and the elegant flight of birds - Chikankari reflects a harmonious relationship with nature that transcends generations. Over time, Chikankari embraced cultural influences from Persian and Turkish designs, creating a vibrant fusion of tradition and innovation. Today, our collection proudly showcases this heritage, with each garment intricately adorned with traditional stitches.
Process
1. Sourcing
Chikankari necessitates lightweight fabrics like muslin, cotton, or chiffon paired with premium threads such as cotton or silk, chosen for their ability to enhance embroidered motifs with elegance and durability.
2. Cutting and Stitching
In the creation of a Chikankari garment, skilled tailors carefully cut and stitch the fabric to exact design specifications before artisans undertake the intricate embroidery work.
3. Block Making
Skilled artisans carve intricate patterns onto wooden blocks, creating stamps for block printing.
4. Block Printing
The blocks are then dipped in dye and stamped onto the fabric to create a guide for the embroidery. This process ensures uniformity and precision in laying out the patterns before the delicate Chikankari embroidery begins.
5. Kadhai Mediator
The mediator securely packages and transports the fabric to skilled embroiderers, preserving its integrity for the meticulous Chikankari stitching, ensuring the garment's quality and craftsmanship are maintained.
6. Kadhai Artisan
Artisans hand embroider each motif using various stitches such as Bakhiya, hool, and phanda, crafting intricate patterns and textures.
7. Washing
After Chikankari embroidery, washing the garment involves gently removing residual block printing dyes. Handwashing with mild soap and cold water protects the embroidery and the delicate craftsmanship.
8. Dyeing
This process involves carefully applying dyes for colors that complement the intricate embroidery, enhancing the garment's final aesthetic appeal.
9. Finishing and Packaging
Finishing a Chikankari garment involves ironing to remove wrinkles, inspecting for quality, and carefully packaging to ensure it remains pristine during transport and storage.
Final Inspection:
Before the garment is ready for sale or use, it undergoes a final inspection to ensure quality and craftsmanship. Any loose threads or imperfections are carefully trimmed, and the garment is checked for consistency in color and embroidery work.
Sustainability
As global focus shifts towards sustainability and ethical practices, the artisan community is embracing a path of heightened environmental responsibility and social consciousness. We have made the transition to utilizing organic and eco-friendly materials for both fabric and embroidery threads, procuring certified organic cotton and natural dyes derived from plants. This shift not only reduces the environmental impact of production but also ensures the safety of artisans and consumers alike. Given that traditional dyeing and washing processes in Chikankari can be water-intensive, it is imperative to implement water conservation measures such as water recycling, adopting low-impact dyeing techniques, and utilizing natural dyeing methods with reduced water consumption.
We have worked on enhancing washing stations in Lucknow significantly improving the efficiency and sustainability of Chikankari production. The implementation of water recycling systems reduces water consumption and environmental impact, while the treatment of wastewater from washing stations enables its reuse in subsequent wash cycles, alleviating pressure on local water resources and addressing pollution concerns. Additionally, the use of biodegradable detergents made from natural ingredients ensures that wastewater does not harm local ecosystems, reflecting our commitment to environmental stewardship.
At Ananta, our dedication to artisan empowerment encompasses providing training, education, and resources for a conscious transition towards a sustainable future.
